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Dayakhatyn and the Caravan Network

The ruins of caravanserais are dotted along the Silk Roads, but one of the best preserved examples is Dayakhatyn in Turkmenistan. It was built by the Seljuks in the 12th century and still stands almost intact, overlooking the Oxus in the distance.

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The history of the Amul Fortress

Rising above the landscape on the southern outskirts of the modern settlement of Turkmenabat is a prominent flat-topped hill. It looks as if it could be a mesa, a landform typical of the deserts of North America.It is, in fact, what remains of one of the most significant settlements on the Oxus/Amu Darya River and a key trading post on the Silk Route. It is Amul.

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Where the Amu Darya Gets its Name

There were always going to be two countries on the Oxus Expedition route which would be logistically and bureaucratically challenging: Afghanistan and Turkmenistan. I entered Turkmenistan in September 2024, the country had not long since re-opened after its COVID-19 lockdown. Read more on how the country has changed since!

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Takht-i Sangin and the Temple of the Oxus

It is always unnerving when Google Maps says that it’ll take six and a half hours to your destination, 22 km away. Is the road really that bad, or is it a glitch in the mapping algorithm? Follow us to Takht-i Sangin and the Temple of the Oxus!

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