The Oxus links Urgench and Nukus, still broad and impressive as it crosses the Kyzylkum, but with its water level dropping year by year. The Lower Amudarya Biosphere Reserve (LABR) is an oasis in the desert, the river bringing life to all manner of species within the tugai forest. But the future of the reserve is in jeopardy due to drought. Positive news first, though. In the 1970s the Bactrian or Bukhara deer — a close relative of the European red deer — was almost extinct. Scientists at LABR have run a hugely successful breeding programme, however, and there are now 31 of of these beautiful creatures in an enclosure, and 1,500 running wild across the park. The rangers keep a close eye on the captive deer, studying their behaviour and health, referring to them as fondly as if they were their children.
There’s a small visitor centre and site office on the edge of LABR. Inside, half a dozen sad stuffed animals poorly illustrate the richness of the local wildlife, but there are reasonably informative maps and other visual displays. Here, we met Hayrat, who studied for a PhD in biodiversity before coming to LABR a few years ago to work as a ranger. He’d be our guide within the reserve.
Thanks to the number of deer, LABR is one of very few places along the Oxus where you’re guaranteed to see native wildlife. There are fish, birds, mammals, and reptiles along the route, but usually they are hard to spot.
Hayrat took us first to the deer enclosure, then through the forest to the riverbank. Most of the wild deer scattered into the safety of the trees when they heard the car’s engine, but curiosity got the better of one, which stood and stared back at us as we drove along the track. I stood a while at the water’s edge, thinking what an idyllic picnic spot it would be, but noticing the water seemed shallower than it did two summers ago.
We stopped at several viewpoints and then in a less scenic but critical location: LABR’s new pumping station. With insufficient water, the forest is dying out, and can no longer support the wildlife. In a bid to delay the inevitable, the reserve’s staff have constructed two small canals, unlined, and a pumping station to lift river water a couple of metres up into the channels. They weren’t pumping the day we visited, but apparently are capable of keeping disaster at bay for now.
This is only a temporary solution, however. It’ll work as long as there is water in the Oxus to pump. But when that water is gone — and it may only be a few years until we reach that tragic point — that’ll be the end of LABR and the animals and plants living here. The deer have been brought back from the brink of extinction once; they may not be so lucky again.